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Vietnam, March 2026

Ho Chi Minh City, 14–20 March 2026, with a day out east in Đồng Nai province. This was a work trip, so a fair amount of the eating happened out of a compartmented box at a desk — and I have put one of those on the page, because a section that only shows the pavement grill and the banquet is telling you a flattering half of the week. But almost everything I ate and almost everyone I met, I found by going out and exploring on my own; my colleagues more often than not did not come with me. The big group dinners here are the exception, not the rule. The rest of it was phở on a steel stool at ten past six in the morning, a bún bowl handed over a folding table by someone I still think about, and bánh xèo I had been eating wrong for years. Every photograph is mine. Where I cannot name what I ate — and there are several — this section says so rather than guessing.

Breakfast at Ten Past Six
Breakfast at Ten Past Six Phở at a steel pavement table at 06:12, and a bánh mì twenty minutes later. The timestamps caught something I had not registered in thirty years of eating phở at dinner: it is a breakfast food, and the version that travels abroad is very often the dinner version, moved to dinner because that is when foreigners eat out. Explore →
Cơm Tấm Mộc
Cơm Tấm Mộc The single most reproducible plate of the trip — broken rice, a grilled pork chop, a fried egg, and a bowl of nước chấm poured over the lot. Cơm tấm is not a variety of rice, it is the broken fraction that once could not be sold whole, and it turns out to hold a sauce far better than the grain it was rejected from. Explore →
The Pavement Grill
The Pavement Grill Five minutes, three photographs, and the best food pictures I took. A bún thịt nướng chả giò built to order off a charcoal grill on the street — and the thing I had never registered until I held one: the noodles are cold, the pork is scalding, and nothing is brought to a common temperature. The contrast is the dish. Explore →
Bánh Xèo and the Long Table
Bánh Xèo and the Long Table The last dinner in Saigon. Bánh xèo means "sizzle cake" after the sound the batter makes hitting the pan — and there is no egg in it, the yellow is turmeric. Plus the thing I had been getting wrong for years: the mountain of herbs is not a garnish, it is the cutlery. Explore →
The Day in the Middle of Nowhere
The Day in the Middle of Nowhere An hour east of the city in Long Thành, Đồng Nai — thatched pavilions, a koi pond, and a countryside banquet house I ate at twice in one day. Also a correction I owe my own notes about a pot of clams, and a plate of battered somethings that stays unidentified. Explore →
Như Lan, the Market, and the Ice Cream
Như Lan, the Market, and the Ice Cream Three places that are not meals. A deli-bakery board with seven kinds of sticky rice on it, a market, an old ice-cream parlour whose famous coconut is not what is in my glasses — and a durian I managed to be wrong about in both directions. Explore →

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