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Sausage

I've made sausage for something over forty years — from my grandfather's smoked Polish kielbasa to Irish black pudding — and for the first fifteen of them I had no map. I had recipes, and a recipe tells you what to do without telling you what you're making. This is the map: what a sausage actually is, the family tree the whole craft hangs off, forty years at my own bench, a photo tour of the world's sausages, the blood-and-offal branch America gave up, and how to read a formula without getting the one number wrong that matters. It's the front door to a much larger project — history, equipment, ingredients, making and curing each get their own section as they're built.

What Is a Sausage?
What Is a Sausage? Harder to define than it looks — casing optional, cooking optional, meat arguably optional. Comminution, salt and a shape. After forty years at the bench, the four directions I'd have gotten it wrong. Explore →
The Family Tree
The Family Tree Every sausage on earth is four decisions made differently: how fine you cut, how much salt and cure, what heat does and when, how much water you let leave. The master map the whole program hangs off — classify by process, not by name. Explore →
Forty Years at the Bench
Forty Years at the Bench The smell of Grandpa's Polish sausage crossing the street from the church, the fifteen years I worked without a map, and everything that came out of trying to get back to that smell. Explore →
A Grand Tour
A Grand Tour Forty-six sausages from ten regions, one picture and one paragraph each — the wide shot. Where a single word means different foods in different countries, where pimentón draws a line across a peninsula, and where caliber matters more than spice. Explore →
Casing or Not
Casing or Not One bowl of seasoned farce becomes a different food depending on nothing but its shape — link, patty, coil, loaf, skinless ćevapi. What the casing is actually for, and the three jobs most people confuse. Explore →
Blood, Liver, Head & Offal
Blood, Liver, Head & Offal The part of the world’s sausage America mostly gave up. Black and white puddings, blood, liver and head cheese — the branch that Louisiana, Pennsylvania and every immigrant grocery quietly kept alive. Explore →
Reading a Sausage Recipe
Reading a Sausage Recipe How to read any formula — and catch the minority that are wrong in the one place it matters: Cure #1 vs #2, ppm math, salt percentage, fat ratio, and why “1 tsp per 5 lb” is a bad and sometimes dangerous unit. Explore →
The Collection
The Collection A guided tour of my own sixty-one making-recipes — what I’m deep in, what’s thin, the thing I got wrong and haven’t fixed, and the German-shaped hole in the middle I’m a little embarrassed about. Explore →

More in this series

The hub above is the front door. Beyond it, the program branches into sibling sections, each its own deep dive. These are live now.

Coming in this series

The rest of the family, built and published one section at a time. Here's what's still to come.

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