Goetta (Cincinnati Pork and Oats)
Cincinnati’s breakfast loaf: braised pork shoulder ground with onion and celery, baked for two hours with pinhead oats in its own broth until it is a thick paste, set in loaf pans, then sliced and fried.
Untested: not yet made in this kitchen. It is here for the Pâtés and Terrines section and is adapted from the source named in the Notes.
Ingredients
- 1 bone-in pork shoulder (3 pounds / 1.36 kg), fat cap trimmed to ½ inch
- 1 large onion (10 ounces / 284 g), roughly chopped
- 3 celery stalks, roughly chopped
- 2 bay leaves
- 10 cups (2.37 L) water
- 2½ cups (400 g) pinhead or steel-cut oats
- 1½ tablespoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt (half as much by volume if table salt)
- 1 tablespoon black pepper
- 1½ teaspoons dried ground sage
- 1 teaspoon MSG (optional)
- Oil or bacon fat, for frying
Directions
- Heat the oven to 350 °F. Cover the pork, onion, celery and bay leaves with the water in a Dutch oven, bring to a boil, cover, and braise in the oven until the pork falls off the bone, 2½–3 hours.
- Lift out the solids and discard the bay leaves. Make the liquid up to 8 cups.
- Shred the pork, discarding large pieces of fat and gristle. Grind it with the onion and celery.
- Return the meat to the liquid with the oats, salt, pepper, sage and MSG, and bring to a boil.
- Bake uncovered, stirring every 30 minutes for the first hour and every 15 minutes for the second, until it is a thick paste, about 2 hours.
- Pack into 3 greased or lined loaf pans (9 × 5 or 8½ × 4½ inches), about 4 cups each, pressing out air.
- Cool 1–2 hours, cover and chill at least 10 hours.
- Slice ½ inch thick and fry in 1 tablespoon fat over medium heat: 7–10 minutes undisturbed on the first side, 5–7 on the second. The slices are delicate.
Notes
Source Adapted from Jed Portman, “Goetta,” Serious Eats.
No liver Goetta is a grain-and-pork loaf, not a liver product; the name is Low German Götte, “groats.” Nineteenth-century immigrants from Oldenburg and Hanover brought it to Cincinnati.
The Pâtés and Terrines section’s American Cousins page (/pates-and-terrines/american-cousins/) covers the history and technique behind this dish.
The photo The photograph shows goetta at Price Hill Chili in Cincinnati.